A Jewel of Elegance

In a recent Criterion sale earlier this year, we were proud to offer a particularly unique piece: an early 20th-century French Art Nouveau platinum and diamond brooch. This exquisite piece, which sold for £5,500, was sold to an overseas buyer.

The brooch is a masterpiece of design and execution, featuring a cushion-shaped old mine diamond at its center. Weighing approximately 3.12 carats, this tinted VS clarity diamond measures 11mm by 9.5mm by 5.6mm, making it a striking focal point. Surrounding the central diamond are thirty rose-cut diamonds, adding a brilliant sparkle that enhances the brooch’s overall allure.

The meticulous Millegrain edging along the borders of the brooch showcases the high level of craftsmanship typical of the Art Nouveau period. This delicate detailing adds texture and depth, highlighting the graceful curves and organic forms that characterize the design. The brooch is further complemented by a secure gold pin at the back, featuring a floral design sliding safety catch, ensuring both beauty and practicality.

Adding to its value and appeal, the brooch bears French hallmarks for platinum and the maker’s mark for Léon Cochinard, a renowned jeweler of the time. The piece measures 7.4cm in length and weighs 8.82 grams, making it a substantial yet elegant accessory.

This brooch, now over 100 years old, is not just a stunning example of antique jewellery but also a genuine work of art. As soon as our valuer came across the item we knew it was special, and it certainly lived up to the billing.